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doors to other worlds
Tag Archives: Czech Republic
Love and Garbage
A novel by the Czech writer Ivan Klima, written in the early 1980s: mostly garbage, actually. He’s very good on garbage: he describes well the environmental pollution of Prague and its environs by the communist regime, and how they also … Continue reading
Posted in read
Tagged book review, Czech Republic, Ivan Klima, Love and Garbage, Prague, Soviet empire
4 Comments
I Served The King Of England
This novel by the Czech writer Bohumil Hrabal, written in 1971, consists of a series of impossible anecdotes strung around the life of the narrator, a waiter in Bohemia during the years around the Second World War. At first it’s … Continue reading
Posted in read
Tagged Bohumil Hrabal, book review, central Europe, Czech Republic, I Served The King Of England, Nazis, Soviet empire
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24 hours in Silesia
The small train from the Czech Republic came rattling through cool Sudeten mountain forests of silver birch into Poland, and then descended to the plains. When I was at school back in the 1970s I had a mental picture of … Continue reading
Posted in road
Tagged central Europe, Czech Republic, Europe rail, Germany, Poland, Silesia, Soviet empire, World War II, Wrocław
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48 hours in Moravia
On into Moravia, the other half of the Czech lands. Long vistas of rolling land, field and heath and forests that are just as cool and dense and lush, if a little more coniferous than in Bohemia. At a small … Continue reading
Posted in road
Tagged Brno, central Europe, Czech Republic, death, Moravia, Olomouc, Roman Empire, Soviet empire, Telč
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lagerland
Plzeň is ground zero of the global lager explosion – it was invented here in the 1830s (ever wondered what the Ur in Pilsner Urquell stood for?) So much to answer for… There’s a museum dedicated to General George S. … Continue reading
Posted in road
Tagged central Europe, church, Czech Republic, Egon Schiele, Plzeň, Soviet empire, synagogue, World War II, České Budějovice, Český Krumlov
5 Comments
Prague: the Jewish quarter
It only takes so long looking at the pretty face of central Europe before you are bound to end up staring at the screaming, searing wound gouged across it: the treatment of the Jews. It was bad enough before the … Continue reading
Posted in bleakdom: don't blink, road
Tagged central Europe, Czech Republic, Germany, holocaust, Judaism, Nazis, Prague, synagogue
2 Comments
Prague: two Sarajevo moments
somwehere in an old building at Prague castle, to my surprise, there was a window with a notice on it saying: this is where the Defenestration of Prague happened. The what? Took me back to when I was 17 and … Continue reading
Posted in road
Tagged central Europe, Czech Republic, Holy Roman Empire, Konopiste, Prague, Prague castle, protestant, religion, Roman Catholic, Sarajevo, Thirty Years War, World War I, World War II
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Prague: beaten track
what is it with Prague? On paper it ought to be the most attractive big city in Central Europe, out-beautifying Budapest and even Vienna. If those three cities had been goddesses and Paris only cast his eyes above two metres … Continue reading
back on the main line
On the train from Dresden to Prague, making its way from Berlin to Vienna, I got a shock: plugged back into the high voltage European backpacker circuit, every compartment filled with people half my age in big groups doing it … Continue reading
Posted in road
Tagged central Europe, Czech Republic, Dresden, Europe rail, Germany, Prague
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the end of the road (for now)
From Trencin, another train journey, this time across the Czech Republic to Prague. Prague was undeniably beautiful, especially the buildings: but a tourist zoo: I guess I arrived 15 years too late, i.e. just in time for the opening of … Continue reading
Posted in road
Tagged art nouveau, church, Cologne, concert, Czech Republic, Europe rail, Germany, McCoy Tyner, Prague
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