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doors to other worlds
Tag Archives: Germany
A Woman In Berlin
This anonymously written diary was kept between April 20th and June 22nd 1945 by a single thirty-something journalist in Berlin, and describes first-hand the utter collapse of German power in the capital of the Reich and the coming of the … Continue reading
Posted in bleakdom: don't blink, read
Tagged A Woman In Berlin, book review, central Europe, Germany, Soviet empire, World War II
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singing fascination
In a disused church in Aachen, an exhibition by a local artist, Lion Ebergard. He has taken Picasso’s trick with eyes and put it at the centre of his work: it is surprising how much eyes pointing in different directions, … Continue reading
Posted in road
Tagged 21st century art, Aachen, central Europe, Germany, Lion Ebergard, Nørn
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the man who invented Europe
On Sunday afternoon, Aachen is a quietly typical German bourgeois town, with a brass band playing in the Cathedral square and teenagers wearing t-shirts emblazoned with legends like NEW YORK FUCKING CITY. It has hot springs, which, along with its … Continue reading
Posted in road
Tagged Aachen, Byzantium, central Europe, Charlemagne, church, Germany, Holy Roman Empire, Roman Empire
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this could be a place of historical importance
On the way from Berlin to Aachen, I had an 18-minute stopover in Cologne, whose name derives from the colony (colonia) that the Romans established here on the banks of the Rhine, their broad German frontier. As the train pulled … Continue reading
Deutsche Bahn
The German train system is perhaps (the French would argue otherwise) Europe’s finest. It works well. And yet… The train from Poznań to Berlin was 20 minutes late at the border. In Frankfurt an der Oder, the first town on … Continue reading
The Pianist
This autobiographical tale by Władysław Szpilman is another staggering account of the holocaust, this one by a Polish Jew. A nationally known concert pianist living in a Jewish area of Warsaw with his parents, brother and two sisters, after the Germans … Continue reading
Posted in bleakdom: don't blink, read
Tagged book review, central Europe, Germany, holocaust, Nazis, Soviet empire, The Pianist, Warsaw, Władysław Szpilman
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Berlin (the start thereof)
As a big city, Berlin feels odd: long vistas, plenty of space, and little of the rush and bustle that characterizes Paris, say, or London, or Tokyo. Unter Den Linden seems rather boring, featureless and staid in comparison to Ginza … Continue reading
earth do not cover their blood
From the moment the bus stops, Auschwitz and Birkenau, 67 and a half years to the day after their liberation, are heaving with guided tour groups in a Babel of languages. The story goes on and on: three-and-a-half almost relentless … Continue reading
24 hours in Silesia
The small train from the Czech Republic came rattling through cool Sudeten mountain forests of silver birch into Poland, and then descended to the plains. When I was at school back in the 1970s I had a mental picture of … Continue reading
Posted in road
Tagged central Europe, Czech Republic, Europe rail, Germany, Poland, Silesia, Soviet empire, World War II, Wrocław
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Prague: the Jewish quarter
It only takes so long looking at the pretty face of central Europe before you are bound to end up staring at the screaming, searing wound gouged across it: the treatment of the Jews. It was bad enough before the … Continue reading
Posted in bleakdom: don't blink, road
Tagged central Europe, Czech Republic, Germany, holocaust, Judaism, Nazis, Prague, synagogue
2 Comments