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doors to other worlds
Tag Archives: Ottoman
Istanbul: The Imperial City
This book about Byzantium/Constantinople/Istanbul, by the American teacher John Freely, is a curious read. It purports to be a chronological history of the city, yet is in fact mostly a string of anecdotes about the doings of its sometime rulers … Continue reading
The Turks in World History
This book by Carter Vaughn Findley of Ohio State University (whose Wikipedia page is in Turkish), traces the movement of the Turkic and Turkish peoples through history from the earliest records of steppe nomads on the margins of ancient empires … Continue reading
tiles and tombs
The Turks may have destroyed Byzantium, but to replace the mosaics they brought ceramics. This is the Topkapi, palace of the Ottoman sultans. I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves… Those were for the living, but they did it for … Continue reading
Dresden: the Saxon one percent
Upstairs in the Royal Palace of the Kings of Saxony is a spectacular collection of Ottoman weaponry, from the days when the Turks had Hungary and threatened Vienna. Downstairs, the so-called Green Vault: two floors of unbelievable and unnecessary trinkature … Continue reading
Posted in misery for the many, freedom for the few, road
Tagged central Europe, Dresden, Germany, Mughal, Ottoman, religion, Roman Empire, Saxony
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Byzantium by bus
And so, 30 years after I first conceived the ambition while turning right at Thessaloniki, I came not sailing but on a highway bus (aware, always, of the tyre-tracks of history) to Istanbul-Constantinople-Byzantium. The rain had cleared and we descended … Continue reading
Posted in anybody up there?, road
Tagged Byzantium, church, Greek Orthodox, Islam, Istanbul, mosque, Ottoman, religion, Roman Empire, Thrace, Turkey
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mosque heaven: Edirne
From Samothraki I took the ferry before dawn back to Alexandroupoli, arriving in brilliant, freezing sunshine. After 20 minutes, the bus to Orestiada turned inland into thick fog, passing through small towns among roads lined with white single-storey Thracian cottages … Continue reading
into the valley
This morning I Ieft Budapest and got a train to a small town in the north-east of Hungary called Eger (that’s pronounced egg-air). Its main claim to fame is that it fought off a large Turkish army that was trying … Continue reading
terror and comfort
Today I went to the Terror House in Budapest. This is a museum set up in the house which was the headquarters, first, of Hungary’s Nazis, who ruled brutally for a few months in 1944-45; and then of the Hungarian … Continue reading
Posted in misery for the many, freedom for the few, road
Tagged Budapest, Hungary, Nazis, Ottoman, Soviet empire, terror, World War II
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Budapest
My arrival in Budapest wasn’t too salubrious: a drunken woman and a man with a weatherbeaten face and a moustache like out of a chronicle of some Balkan war shouting and throwing a table at each other, and an old … Continue reading
Posted in road
Tagged Budapest, church, Danube, Hungary, Nazis, Ottoman, Roman Empire, Soviet empire, synagogue, terror, World War II
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